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Creating a Black Hair Care Regimen :: An Review

For optimal black hair growth and health, you should develop a week by week regimen of what you will need to do to your hair in order to keep it clean, healthy and growing.

To create a basic hair care regimen, you need to determine the following things:


1.**Figure out what times of day you need to moisturize and what products work best for your hair. You should have at least one moisturizer for adding moisture AND another moisturizer that specifically says it contains protein or that it is “Anti Breakage”. Alternate between these two moisturizers as needed. I will tell you in another post how to tell if your hair needs more moisture or more protein.

2.**Oils and Sealants

To keep moisture in your hair after using your moisturizer, you will need to apply an oil to “seal in” the moisture so your hair wont get dried out. Good oils to use are olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, rosemary oil, sweet almond oil, carrot oil, tea tree oil, castor oil, etc. I’ll have a detailed post just on essential oils later.

3.**Determine when and how you will style your hair and find products necessary to protect your hair from that styling. For example, if you style with a lot of heat, you will need to use a Heat Protectant on your hair each time you style to prevent damage.

4.**Leave-In Conditioner

Find a good leave in conditioner that makes your hair feel and look better. It may take a while of trying different products to find the one you like best. Infusium 23 is an example of a good leave-in conditioner.

5.**Determine how you will protect your hair while you are sleeping. Either wrap it up with a satin head wrap or use a satin or satin-like pillowcase. This prevents excess friction on your hair as you move around in bed, which will cause less hairs to be accidentally broken off. Wrapping your hair up in something also keeps the products you put on it from messing up your pillows and sheets!

6.**I have not yet discussed protective styles yet, but basically they are styles like buns, wraps, wigs, weaves, etc. that you can use to keep your hair protected from excess sun, dry air and friction from clothing. Putting a good moisturizer on the hair and using a protective style during the day is a great way to keep your hair moisturized all day. The less your hair is out and messed with, the better!


1.**Determine how often per week (or bi-weekly) you will wash your hair and what products you will use. Remember to use a moisturizing shampoo.If your hair is very damaged and feels mushy, you should use a protein conditioner that says on the label that it contains protein or keratin. If your hair feels hard, stringy, dry and broken, use a moisturizing conditioner.

2.**Find a good deep conditioner. I would suggest using a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week. Even more if your hair is very damaged. Just like conditioners and moisturizers, there are deep conditioners especially made for hair that needs more protein or hair that needs more moisture. I will discuss deep conditioners and how to use them in an upcoming post. I personally use the Motions Deep Penetrating Treatment. Your hair may like a different product. Try a few different ones to see what works best.

3.**Vitamins, Diet, Exercise, Growth Aids

A good diet and exercise contributes a lot to having healthy hair. The body focuses first on internal processes, then on things like hair and nails last. So that means, if you aren’t taking care of your insides as well, your body will give nutrients and vitamins to your insides first and your hair and nails may get neglected if you the body doesn’t have enough nutrients to use for them. Using a good multivitamin supplement is a great idea to make sure your hair and scalp get their share of internal attention as well as the attention you pay to it from the outside. There are also supplements like Biotin, which can make hair and nails stronger.

4.You can also consider using growth aids to speed hair growth if that is your goal. Popular hair growth aids are Megatek by a company called Equiss and M-T-G by a company called Shapeley’s. Do your research on products like these first and see what results others are having and how they need to be used. I am currently using Megatek and have also used MTG, so if you would like more specific information on these products, please comment or send me an email.


1.**Determine how often you will relax your hair. It’s a good idea to stretch as long as you can between relaxers to reduce the chance of you re-relaxing hair that has already been relaxed before. I will talk more about stretching later, but it gives the hair time to grow, so that it will be easier

to apply the touch up relaxer to the new growth only.

2.**When you use a lot of products in your hair every month, as most black women do, it is then necessary to use a Clarifying Shampoo once a month to remove buildup that regular shampoos do not remove. I use Suave Clarifying Shampoo once a month. If you continue to pile products onto hair that already has a lot of product buildup, products will start to not have as good of an effect on the hair as it did the first few times you used it. Clarifying gets rid of the buildup so products will once again be able to provide you with their full benefits.

If you do these things, you will have a pretty good basic regimen. It will take some time on your own to find the right products that work for you and are available in your area, and you can try to add things that you discover work for your hair that I may not have mentioned here. The important thing is that you learn what your hair needs on a daily, weekly, and monthly basis and keep up with doing it.

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How to Find a Good Hair Moisturizer For Relaxed and Natural Black Hair :: An Review

Moisturizing hair is as important as deep conditioning to any black person who wishes to have long hair. As washing and deep conditioning the hair every day is quite impractical, a hair moisturizer is required to avoid dryness until the next wash.

Relaxed and natural black hair tends to be quite porous so loses moisture quickly. The key to long beautiful locks is to keep replacing the moisture lost. The easiest way to do this between washes is to use a good moisturizer.

First things first, let’s deal with a common misconception about oil. Oil is not a moisturizer! Oil lubricates the hair and ‘seals in’ any moisture you already have in the hair. If your hair is dry and brittle and you apply oil to it then you are doing your hair more harm than good. The oil will coat the hair and prevent any further moisture from entering the hair which will lead to breakage.

The best moisturizers should always be water based i.e. the first ingredient should be water; water is in fact the best moisturizer! Good moisturizers should also contain humectants. These are ingredients which attract water from the atmosphere, glycerine being the most popular of these. Honey is also an excellent humectant but more commonly used in conditioners and not moisturizers.

Always avoid moisturizers that contain mineral oil or any other petroleum based product in the first few ingredients. Mineral oil does nothing but coat the hair leaving it shiny but dry.

You may find that the best conditioners are the ones that are marketed to ‘wet type’ styles (jheri curl or wave nouveau) as they contain mainly water and glycerine. S curl is particularly good.

How to use hair moisturizers is just as important as getting the right product. If you plan to blow dry or roller set your hair, after towel drying apply a dime sized amount of a water and glycerine based moisturizer before you apply the same amount of heat protectant and comb through hair to evenly distribute. After the blow dry or roller set your hair will be left soft and silky to the touch and will remain like this throughout the day. If you plan to flat iron it then only apply leave in conditioner and a silicone based heat protectant to the hair.

Moisturizers should then be applied daily or as needed. Only a dime sized amount is required for shoulder length hair. A touch more for longer hair. Always comb the moisturiser through the length of the hair with a wide tooth comb to make sure that every strand gets its share. You can apply a bit more to the ends if desired. There is no benefit in loading your hair with moisturizer as hair is only about 10-14% water and all you are trying to do is regain the moisture balance in your hair. You are more likely to ruin your style by leaving relaxed hair looking greasy or reverting natural hair altogether by applying too much moisturizer! When you use a moisturizer well, it should keep your hair from drying out without weighing the hair down or being sticky.

Oil free moisturizers are also good option. They contain silicones that help ‘seal’ the moisture into the hair but their first ingredient must also be water and hair should be washed every 3rd day to prevent build-up. Some good examples of natural oil that can be used to seal in moisture after a wash are coconut oil, avocado butter, mango butter or Shea butter. Remember that these are oils and will just lock in whatever moisture you already have in your hair. It is advisable to dampen the hair slightly before applying any hair oil to it.

For more black hair care articles please visit

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Black Hair and Chemical Relaxers :: An Review

It estimated around 70 % of Black women relax their hair. However, alarmingly approximately 67% of these will suffer a side effect ranging from breakage, being the most common, to shedding; to alopecia; to chemical burns. Long-term use of relaxers is implicated as a factor in the development of Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia, and believed to be a factor in the development of severe contact dermatitis.

The Structure

The structure of hair consists of polypeptide chains connected by ends bonds and interlinked with side bonds. There are 3 types of side links: disulfide bonds, salt bonds and hydrogen bonds, all of which work together to form an incredibly strong structure.

Disulphide bonds are the strongest links and account for about a third of the hair’s strength. Hair relaxers work by altering the chemistry of these bonds.

The Process

Relaxer creams have a high alkalinity level which is required to open the hair cuticle and allow penetration of the chemicals into the shaft. Once inside, the chemical reactions break the cross bond attachment allowing the polypeptide chain to be free to adopt its new shape. Hence wise your hairdresser must continually smooth your hair to coerce the chain into the required straightened position. Neutralizer is then applied to deactivate the chemical reaction and normalise the pH level.

Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye, is commonly found in relaxers as it by far the most effective straightener. Nevertheless, the pH of Sodium Hydroxide can exceed 13.0, whereas the normal pH of hair is 5. It is an extremely corrosive chemical also used in hair depilatories, as well as drain pipe cleaners due to its effectiveness strength. Other chemicals used tend to be marketed as No-Lye products, using chemical such as guanidine hydroxide, but work very much on the same principle. Although these may reduce scalp irritation, they tend to have a higher pH than sodium hydroxide. They also tend not to straighten the hair as well and so retouching is required more frequently. In addition, no-lye relaxers work by removing moisture from the cortex causing the hair to become dry and porous. So overall these have the potential to be more damaging. Unfortunately for some, once the disulfide bonds are broken not all reform cross links, leaving the hair in a weaken state.

However, some of his damage can be prevented by undertaking a thorough evaluation of the hair type and condition before applying a relaxer. This should consist of 3 tests:

· Elasticity Test

Strong hair exhibits good elasticity, whereas reduced elasticity indicates a pre-treatment regime is required before continuing with a relaxer.

· Strand Test

This provides an indication of the outcome, particularly in terms of elasticity. If the hair shows signs of reduced elasticity and breaks easily, then the relaxer should be delayed and a treatment programme followed.

· Porosity Test

Ideally should be undertaken on different sections of the head to assess cuticle damage. Damaged cuticles feel very rough in texture as opposed to the smoothness of healthy strands.

Overall while relaxer applications can be damaging to the hair, the key to prevention is, knowing your hair type and the type of relaxer you intend using. With proper care, conditioning and understanding, you can help to avoid the pitfalls which affect the majority of women who relax their hair.

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Black Hair Care – Simple Hair Care Basics :: An Review

Keeping your black hair in good healthy condition is important as African hair tends to be on the dryer side and more prone to breakage. This is due to the nature of the hair structure that makes it hard for the scalp oil to reach to the hair ends. These are the black hair care basics that you can follow to reduce breakage.

First rule in washing your hair is to limit the number of times you wash – twice every week or a week and a half. If you lead a very active lifestyle and have active outdoor routines, you can wash your hair immediately before you retire that day. Even if you do not wash your hair, just make sure that you rinse the salt out of your hair. Leave on a daily conditioner and it is a must to apply the conditioner after normal hair washing.

A good deep conditioner or a hot oil treatment can be done once a month for your hair to ensure that it is strong and healthy. The dryer your hair is, the more it is important for you to include the deep conditioning treatment. Good natural oil like Shea butter can be used on a regular basis to help stimulate your scalp oil production which is beneficial for your hair. Do not use products that contain mineral oil or petroleum for your hair as they are pore-clogging and are not readily absorbed by your hair.

As with heat treatment to sculpt and style your hair, black hair care basics focus on limiting the use of heat on your hair. Heat that is used especially in perms is very damaging to your already prone to drying type of hair. When you are going to bed, have your hair sectioned, pleated, tied or wrapped up using a scarf to reduce hair breakage.

Last but not least, include enough water in your diet, with foods that contain vitamins and proteins that are essential for proper hair growth. Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be. These are just a few basic ways you can incorporate in your black hair care routine.

To Grow Black Hair You Need Moisture :: An Review

How great is it to know that armed with a good technique and understanding, your own hair can be glamorously styled without adding harsh chemicals and enabled to grow to its optimum length. Hair is organic and our fragile locks are under attack every day. From the way treat our hair, to the environmental effects of pollutants and the weather. Listed below is a brief guide to hair care tips for keeping natural hair in great condition and creating natural healthier hair over time.


Natural hair that is fully moisturised is less likely to break prematurely as moisture renders the hair more pliable. In effect the strands are more elastic and able to glide more smoothly on each other. Therefore less tangles, less tugging and less breakage. Water is the ultimate moisturiser. After all, every cell in the body is comprised mostly of water so why would the hair be any different?


Oils have different properties and choosing the right oil for you is sometimes a matter of trial and error. There are many hair loving oils such as avocado oil, olive oil, jojoba oil but research suggests very few actually fully penetrate the hair shaft. Coconut oil however has been shown not only penetrate the cortex, but help condition, moisturise and strengthen hair as well.


Change the Way You Treat Your Hair Shampooing, combing, and drying are three of the most common reasons for cuticle (outer surface if the hair) damage. Controlling these factors is by far the most critical in maintaining afro hair and getting it right, hence the numerous techniques developed all aimed at limiting the damage.

Scalp Care

Healthy hair will not grow from a dirty scalp, so keep your scalp squeaky clean. An inexpensive aid to scalp health is to massage. By stimulating your scalp you encourage the blood circulation and allow your scalp’s natural oils, sebum, to be distributed. Use your fingertips only.


Nothing to date is guaranteed to make your hair grow faster. On every head, hair is growing at different rates, sometimes growing faster in the summer than in the winter. Overall hair length and rate is genetically programmed, so despite the promises, you may never grow hair longer than an inch.

Uniquely You

What you eat impacts on many aspects of your appearance. Eat a balanced diet, make sure you get adequate protein and vitamins; and exercise regular. Your hair, like your body, needs many different nutrients and there are several supplements on the market for stronger hair. However, while they can help they don’t always provide the full range of nutrients your hair needs and can sometimes have side effects.

Resting Hair

Hair loss occurs in all ethnic populations, but in black women, many forms of alopecia (baldness) are associated directly to our hair care practices. Constant pulling on the follicles can lead to permanent hair loss.


There is an abundance of information on products seducing us with promises, yet we still know very little about the growing number of hair conditions which are rife in our community. Know that great hair ultimately begins with you, with what you think, what choose to put in your body and what you choose to put on it.

So armed with a list of things you can try, why not give it a go?

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